TO PICK AND EAT FRUIT FROM ITS TREE

Writer: Ayça Olcaytu İşçen
October 2007

We want to introduce you Zemi Valley which we have explored in the leadership of Mehmet Serinsu, who has been a trekking guide with the slogan of ‘Cappadocia can only be known by walking through the valleys’, for 40 years.
We start off on July 26, Thursday morning at 09:00 am, from the Babaccık location where Kermir Hill, 10 km from Ürgüp, is located, from a point where a stand for selling souvenirs and a sign board labeled as ‘Zemi Valley–5600 m’ takes place. Our group that comprises French and Turks consists of 13 people. Our guide takes a separate pleasure of introducing every tree and plant to our group. According to him, there is no meaning of walking without identifying the plants, rocks, structures and even the birds and butterflies encountered on the route and the best way of getting acquainted with Cappadocia is to see these valleys. We do not settle for learning about the trees but we taste the flavor of the fruits also. These are plums, mulberries, apricots, pears and even hazelnuts. Do not say what hazelnuts are doing in Cappadocia, woody and watery bottom of the valley has a rich flora. We do not feel the hot air since our walk takes place almost completely in this cool area and the potable water sources make us feel relieved. I start thinking all the way long that Cappadocia has the wealth of providing extra ordinary experiences in all seasons. The mottos like “Do not go in summer, it will be hot, do not go in winter it will be cold” are not for those who would like to feel and to know Cappadocia.
We then come to the place where Karabulut and Sarnıç Churches are located, where none of the classical tours visit. The ruggedness, lividness and the number of the frescoes of the Sarnıç Church magnetize us.
At the end of Zemi Valley, there are signboards that show the paths to Görkündere and El Nazar Churches. We then proceed to another picturesque valley that is covered with spectacular fairy chimneys when we follow the path that leads to Görkündere. Our tour in the valley takes about an hour. Later on we return to the place where the signboard is and then we tour El Nazar Church and Saklı Church that is behind the former one. Our walk ends near a shop located on the right hand side of Göreme–Ürgüp road, about 500 m away. We freshen up with cool drinks near the shop. 

Güveç and pilaf in an earthenware pot 
A vehicle that awaits us near the shop takes us to our guide’s vineyard house that has a Meskendir Valley view which is located between Ortahisar and Göreme. Delicious dishes consist of pilaf and güveç (meat and vegetables stewed in an earthenware pot), salad, water melon, various drinks and local wine await our team. Mehmet plays saz (a traditional Turkish musical string instrument) and sings Cappadocia folk songs for us. Our conversation, that takes place with the accompaniment of dark tea which is prepared over the wood fire, comes to an end with the sun set. 

We really thank very much to Osman Fevzi Taşer, the General Manager of the Kapadokya Inn Hotel, who organized this trip and at the same time to Mehmet Serinsu who works as a trekking guide for Koptur Travel Agency.

Koptur Travel Agency
Istanbul centered Koptur Travel Agency is organizing more comprehensive tours in the region where we have walked. People who join trekking tours of Koptur, do not only explore natural and historical beauties, but also get opportunity to learn Cappadocia culture closely. Koptur, which is member of organizations such as ASTA (American Society of Travel Agents), UFTAA and Gezginler Kulübü (Travelers Club), also organizes thematic tours including agriculture, winemaking, fishing, Turkish cuisine and archaeology.
For detailed information: www.koptur.com , www.kapadokyainn.com
    
Churches which can be seen during trekking
El Nazar Church
The church is reached by following the road turns near the shop, on the right hand side, 500 m away from Göreme, when Open air Museum road is followed. The signboard helps you when you proceed 800 m on this road which is also a dried water course. The people who walk through Zemi Valley also pass by this signboard which is about 250 m from the church. The church among vineyards is built by carving in a conical fairy chimney. Destructed parts of the church are restored. Frescoes date back to 11th and 12th centuries. There are graves carved into the floor on the east side of the church that is built on a cross plan with three apses. In the frescoes which are chronologically lined, the annunciation, the visit, the nativity, the baptism, entrance into Jerusalem and the ascension scenes are depicted. Also saint illustrations within medallions can be seen here. Entrance into church is paid. 

Saklı Church
After you reach El Nazar Church, you can visit also Saklı Church, which is very close. The entrance of the church with three apses was built on a rectangle plan and it faces the Zemi Valley. Frescoes, depicted directly on smoothened rock, not on plaster, date back to 11th century. This characteristic is very interesting. In the main area the Crucifixion fresco attracts attention. There are also scenes depicting the annunciation, the nativity, the presentation of Jesus at the temple, the baptism of Jesus by John the Baptist, Mary’s death and some saints. The church is locked so you should ask for help from the officer of El Nazar Church. 

Karabulut Church
The church is reached by following Ürgüp-Nevşehir main-road, taking the right turn after 10 km, where Zemi Valley signboard stands. After walking 2,5 km through the valley from this point, known as Babaccık location, a path of 100 m long separates on the left hand side take you to Karabulut Church. Since it is not included in tour routes, you can only see the church, dates back to 11th century, in the leadership of a trekking guide who knows the area well. 

Sarnıç Church
The church, located about 200 from Karabulut Church, was used as a water cistern for a period. Today water traces in the church still can be seen. Wholeness and richness of the frescoes, especially on the upper side of the church with a single apse, are interesting. Along with the scenes such as the annunciation, the nativity, the betrayal and the crucifixion, various saints’ depictions in medallions can be seen. Since it is not included in tour routes, you can only see the church, dates back to 11th century, in the leadership of a trekking guide who knows the area well. 

Note: This article has been published in Peribacası Cappadocia Culture and Publicity Magazine, October 2007 issue. It is under protection of the copyrights of the magazine. No part of this article may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by electronic, mechanical or other means without prior permission from the owner. www.cappadociaexplorer.com